过了1600年,这种材料终于走上巴黎秀场

 > 发布于2020-01-13 阅读 7.7k
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有一种玻璃,当你从不同角度观察它,它的颜色也随之改变,当它遇到光线,其表面会呈现一种颜色,而穿过玻璃的光线却呈现出与玻璃完全不同的另一种色彩,像是将一条彩虹揉碎了混合在里面。


它经常被叫做“彩虹玻璃”、“炫彩玻璃”或者“反光变色玻璃”,这些将光呈现出梦幻感的材料,都得益于二向色(Dichorism)在材料领域的应用。



当建筑包罗四季

WHEN BUILDING CONTAINS SEASONS


“把光当作材料”

"Take light as material."

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火的博物馆

美国欧弗兰帕克“烧不尽”博物馆

Museum at Prairiefire, Overland Park, USA



位于美国堪萨斯州欧弗兰帕克的博物馆建筑­—— Museum at Prairiefire 述说着该地区草原可控燃烧传统的精彩故事。杰出博物馆建筑师及规划师Verner Johnson设计了一座契合周围景观的建筑,创造了一座看起来如同田野中炽盛火焰的作品。建筑采用多种颜色的炫彩不锈钢砖,再配合使用二向色玻璃,捕捉到火焰向上和扩张的运动姿态,为建筑增添生命感和与动感,使其变得永恒、灵动而令人难忘。随着角度和阳光的变化,“火焰”也呈现出不同的色彩,每天都是一个循环。

   

The architecture of the Museum at Prairiefire in Overland Park, Kansas celebrates the rich story of the region, stemming from the Kansas tradition of controlled prairie burns. Jonathan Kharfen, the lead architect on the project examined the landscape and its characteristics and developed an idea to create a building that looked like flames ablaze in the fields. The design evoked a sense of irony, according to Jonathan, “It’s not traditionally a building’s job to conjure up images of fire, in fact, it’s quite the opposite”. The obstacle presented here was how to capture the upward and expansive movement of fire, adding animation to a building constructed of lifeless materials. The solution was to use a combination of multi-colored, iridescent stainless steel tiles, mixed with an innovative use of Dichroic Glass. These products, in conjunction with the stone volumes as a backdrop, provided durability and design versatility, resulting in vivid, inextinguishable color.


  

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塞纳河落日余晖

法国塞纳Fulton公寓

Fulton block, France



Bernard Bühlershe设计事务所设计了这座位于法国塞纳河边的公寓。二向色玻璃在这座建筑中被当折线形阳台的围栏使用,这种形状的阳台不仅让建筑更富有动感,而且每一层都能获得最多的阳光,不会因楼层被遮挡。折线形设计,让二向色玻璃呈现出不同角度的朝向,即使从一个视角观看,每一块玻璃的颜色也会产生变化。随光线变色的玻璃、炽热的阳光、塞纳河上的闪耀的光点,让这座建筑与自然巧妙的联系在一起。


Agency Bernard Bühlershe designed this apartment,which is on the side of the Seine. Dichroic glass is used as the fences of polyline balconies. The building is dynamic and every floor could enjoy the sunshine instead of undering shadows of higher floors in this polyline style. Color-change glass, warm sunshine, and the sparkling river, connecting the building and nature masterly.











穿上这束光

WEAR THIS LIGHT


“就要唱高调”

"Be an eyes catcher."



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无限的可能性

Balmain 2018 F/W


   

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Balmain18年秋冬女装发布会上发布了以二向色布料为主的服装系列,充分展现了这种材料强大的可塑性。无论是柔软的轻薄面料、厚实的菱格布料、还是硬挺的PVC基材,与二向色原料的结合都使它们焕发光彩。它既可以是点缀在布料上的羽毛和亮片,也可以作为面料本身,与黑色基材的结合,则让服装更有冷峻的科技感。


The Balmain 2018 Fall/Winter women’s collection exhibits a series of garments that were released that display a dichroic fabric, which demonstrates the strong plasticity of this material.  Whether it is a soft thin fabric, a thick rhombic fabric, or a tough PVC substrate, this dichroic raw material allows it to glow.  It can be dressed with feathers and sequins on cloth, and can also be used as a fabric alone.  The combination of black and the base materials gives clothing both a frosty, yet technological aesthetic. 


    




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暗夜霓虹

Neon in night






Masion Margiela

AW 18 show








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Balmain相比,Masion Margiela的这一系列更加大胆且朋克,二色面料不仅被用于服装,还被制作成鞋包等配件。Margiela发掘了这种面料厚重且具有体积感的一面,这些服装没有选择梦幻轻薄的柔软面料,取而代之用褶皱效果的面料突出它的金属质感和廓形效果,与Balmain产生截然不同的效果。


Compared to the Balmain collection, the Maison Margiela collection is more bold, punk. The dichroic

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